Trolltunga! Master of Rocks!
Trolltunga!! I think that the biggest dream of everyone who has seen its photo is to climb onto this magnificent rock and to have a wonderful walk experience on it :)). Years ago I was incredibly impressed with its photos and I asked to myself if there is such a place on earth :)). This rock was named Trolltunga since its shape looks like Trolls' tongue which seems like legendary creature of Norway whose ears and noses are huge (find the photo below). The tongue of the Troll :P.
After completing our trip in Bergen, cute city of Norway, we had departed to Jondal which is 107 km far away from Bergen by car we rented from Bergen. While we were travelling in company with the magnificient visual of Hardanger Fjord, we stopped many times to photograph this beautiful nature since we could not remain insensitive to the lights and its reflections :)). Fjords which are snuggling to the interiors and are formed as a result of the invasion of sea over valleys are available almost everywhere in Norway. After accomplishing our Trolltunga purpose, we focused on finding our Airbnb reserved residence where we would have stayed 2 days following the day we settled since we were wishing to see in detail the most famous Fjords of Norway in the rest of our time.
The roads in Norway are fine but they are not double highway since the population is low and the Norwegians do not want to destroy nature, therefore although the distances seem close, because of the narrow roads that you have to be careful and that are preventing to go fast as on highways, you cannot quickly arrive in your destination. After a joyous trip, we had arrived in Jondal where we had accommodated.
We settle into this cute Norwegian house that we have reserved on Airbnb with warm welcome of the hosts. This cute house takes all of our fatigue with its outlook. We will stay on the top floor of this two-storey frame house which is well designed and has a magnificent architecture. The days in Norway are so long since Norway is close to the North Pole, therefore its advantageous for you to go to somewhere you have aimed but the fatigue is a stubborn fact of course. As I said, we are so lucky that this cute house in Jondal took all of our fatigue with its outlook. Now it is time to rest :)). Due to the delay as we planned we make our preparation quickly for the next day´s Trolltunga climbing and we start resting. Tomorrow is the tough day with full of adrenaline, if we can wake up indeed :))).
In the morning we are departing quickly to Odda-Tyseddal from Jondal where we are staying. Luckily weather is looking so beautiful. As a result of about 50-km and an hour-long traveling we are arriving Tyseddal. After getting detailed walking information about Trolltunga walking-track from Tourist Information Centre we are leaving our car to parking place which is in Trolltunga Start Point.
For Trolltunga Climbing you can also go up with your own car to the Skjeggedal Camp which is in 6 km distance and the upper station; yet, due to the fact that Trolltunga is popular place and we are late for climbing time. Officials don’t allow us to go up with our own car because of vehicle density of Skjeggedal station. That’s why we are going towards to Skjeggedal by means of hourly buses.
We arrived in Skjeggedal Camp after 20-minute-long joyous travelling. We were ready to climb to Trolltunga :)). There were 2 routes for climbing, but the forest road is the best choice. The difficult part of this road was the first 1-km part which is so sloping and so steep that it forces people really :)). I recommend you going up slowly, by taking rest and without hurrying up. You should also dress thin from the moment you start to walk; regardless of how cold the weather is, since at the beginning you will incredibly sweat because of expending energy. I want to share with you essential points below which should be considered before the climbing
Things to remember:
Do not take too much material; get a bag as light as possible.
2-3 dry fit t-shirts, a raincoat, a jumper and a towel.
Waterproof, comfortable trekking shoes.
Water (It is absolutely necessary for the first 1 km except that it is available everywhere.)
Food (High-carbohydrate and high-protein sandwich)
The first 1 km section is inclined 45 degrees and mostly consists of stone stairs. In places where there are no stone stairs, you can climb up by the help of ropes.
You do not need to benefit from Gps navigation for the hiking route because you do not lose track thanks to the T mark on the trees and rocks (You can see the mark below). Due to the fact that it is already a very crowded walking route, so you can continue follow the direction of people coming and going and you are going to be comfortable without losing your way
Trolltunga hiking distance is 11 km and consists of total 22 km, including departure and return. Signboards showing how much distance is left in each km on the walking-track are your biggest motivation source. Of course, it could be the exact opposite situation :)). We change our shirts by taking a short break because of sweating incredibly in the first km.
After the first 1-km tiring area the road is a little more easing with the slope turning to normal and we are starting to enjoy it incredibly because adaptation is much easier :)). Even taking photo is occurring your mind :)). The hiking-track is so crowded and people are so friendly against each other. This friendliness has really an adjuvant effect on your motivation.
No matter how much the changing weather forces us commune with nature is very enjoyable and I can say that it is the most pleasant mountain hiking that I have ever had in my life :)). There are many small water sources on the road and there are waterholes in which these water resources pouring. Along the way we enjoy the water that we fill from these water sources :)). Magnificent !!
We are approaching the view of Sorfjord, part of the Hardanger Fjord. As we are getting close the Norwegian nature is making a visual show for us. A large majority of road is over (7 km) :)). Just a little left: 4 km :)). We are so sad that we cannot pitch a tent in front of the Sorfjord view and we keep going with consoling ourselves and saying “next time”.
Being so long of days in Norway makes it incredibly easy. We still have a lot of time if we think about the weather gets dark at 12 pm. Our goal is to enjoy the Troll’s tongue; we do not want to come out fast :).
The weather gets a little colder as we reach the highs. There are unmelted snows on the ground, we cannot imagine the winter. I guess there are two seasons here: winter and July :). The thing that forces you most during the hiking is definitely sweating. As mentioned above, make sure that you have your backup light clothes beside; you will need thick clothes where you take a rest.
The last 2 km do not really seem to pass :(. We are on our way for 4 hours on the journey that we started at 12 o'clock and we do not want to think about the return path, since we have not arrived yet where we will aim to go :)). Should we turn back :P. Happiness on the face of those who are on the return path gets our bowels in an uproar. Besides I guess the most important tradition of this hiking trail is that people you don’t know motivate you! “Hang on, you’re almost there” , “A wonderful beauty is waiting for you above!” So indeed, a wonderful view!! We finally arrive at Trolltunga. We complete the arrival part of this tiresome 11-km journey. Now it’s time to climb on the rock and then be drunk with adrenaline :)). Things on the rock spice more and more, a really stressful job, it is not easy to get there :)).
There is no protection on the rock. Need to be very careful that there have been many tourists who have fallen before. A rock is about 800 meters high, so people cannot be stress-free. You’re asking yourself “Is all 11-km walking and crossing the whole roads only for this stress, what I am doing?” . You’re saying “have your head on your shoulders and don’t climb up”;yet, I'd like to point out that feeling that cannot be described :)). And the final, hello to everyone from Trolltunga's famous, adrenaline-filled rock :)). I was not afraid, but my heart almost stopped :)).
After we experienced adrenalin drunkenness on our fatigue we started eating something and enjoying this beautiful view. It should be the real word of peace :)).
Trolltunga was really one of the most exciting trekking experiences that we have ever had in our lives. The return journey went without any problem expect being late to Skjeggedal camp. There was no shuttle because we arrived at Skjeggedal camp at 12 pm :))). Fortunately we were able to go to the car park where we left our car as a result of hitchhiking with the adventurous French couple we met on the road. We arrived at Jondal where we were staying with sweet and peaceful fatigue. Now we deserve a good rest. There was a huge week waiting for us in Norway :)).